2021 Giovanni Almondo Roero Rosso (Nebbiolo), Piedmont, Italy

When Nebbiolo is mentioned, it’s easy to rush to the grand wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. But, the grape is a sneaky transmitter of place and changes with where its planted. This comes from the sandy soils of Roero. And sand has an incredible capacity to transmit freshness, even in the most toothsome varietals like nebbiolo. Almondo makes a fine, aromatic version that comes from 70 year old vines and spends a quiet two years untoasted casks to retain its purity. A philosophy of purity that’s reflected across both their reds and whites.

One more thing: Though the wine is nothing like Barolo, this area borders the famous region. Divided by the Tanaro river, Roero faces Barolo to the west. Though you can throw a stone into the neighboring region, the wines from each are wildly different because of their soils and microclimates. I was always think this is a powerful example of terroir.