2022 Place of Changing Winds ‘Tradition’ White, Macedon Ranges, Australia

1/3 Chardonnay & 2/3 Marsanne/Roussanne The Chardonnay is from a new Dominique Laurent Tronais cask Bullengarook gravel, which is a very rocky, gravelly soil Hand harvested Aged for one year in a mix of 500 liter casks, Wineglobes and neutral barriques Aged for a further year in steel.

The 2022 Tradition comprises Marsanne and Chardonnay from Harcourt, Macedon Ranges. It’s gently golden in the glass, and aromatically, it leads with pineapple and white rose, cumin, star anise, aniseed and curry leaf, with custard powder and sea salt. It is rich and undulating and sort of caresses the palate rather than sits atop it. The acidity regulates the density of the fruit and balances the opulent (almost fat!) capaciousness of the wine. It’s intriguing and great and feels very much as if it would go down a treat at a summer seaside venue. Excellent. I like it more and more as it opens up in the glass. 14% alcohol, sealed under Diam. – Erin Larkin