2020 Domaine de la Touraize, Arbois Chardonnay ‘Les Voisines’, Jura, France

Les Voisines (the neighbors) comes from 2.35 hectares of Chardonnay spread among four parcels in Arbois: Curoulet, En Flandre, Les Corves, and La Platire, with soils ranging from gravelly marl to calcareous marl to blue marl. The fruit is pressed whole-cluster and undergoes alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in well-used barrels of varying sizes, where the wine spends 18 months on the fine lees and is bottled without fining or filtration, and with just 20 milligrams per liter of sulfur (added after malolactic finishes). The barrels are kept full, in the ouill style, and the finished wine displays bristling minerality unaccented by oxidative elements. Despite its recognizable varietal character and its purity of fruit, however, this is a forcefully saline, chiseled iteration of Chardonnay that could be produced nowhere else but the Jura.