2023 Max Kilburg Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

The Ohligsberg is considered, by nearly every German winemaker we speak with, among the top sites of the Mosel. It has a great exposure, so warmth and ripeness is not a problem, yet parts of it are also tucked into a side-valley of sorts and the wines benefit from the cool breezes that slide down the valley. As such, the wine is both powerful and deep not lavish exactly but it often presents a darker, deeper fruit tone, more than one taster has noted a familial similarity with Domprobst for those who know Willi Schaefers taut Baroque scultpures from this vineyard. At the same time the wine lacks nothing for firmness, electricity, structure. My notes somewhere say 11.5 acidity which maybe isnt exactly correct but wow. Electricity? – vom Boden